Tuesday, January 09, 2007

I can't say I've ever loved Manila, but I'm enjoying my short time here. This is most likely because I'm in Makati, the financial district, which resembles almost any other large city in the US. It embarrasses me a bit to see how comfortable I feel in this ex-pat area, how I feel more at home around the malls and the clean streets than I do in more impoverished areas of Manila.

I don't want to admit that I am scared when I get into taxi cabs, but I've heard such awful stories about armed robberies, drivers that pull into alleys and allow their passengers to get mugged and tossed into the streets. There are those stories, and I admit they have me on guard. But here in Makiti, there are few beggars, few people following me in the streets asking for some change. And while poverty is an epidemic I wish to energies towards, I observe myself still feeling a bit relieved, at ease, that I don't have to clutch my purse by my side as I walk down the streets, that I can relax. It's embarrassing to me, but there it is.

Here's the view out my hotel window:

So I suppose I've officially arrived in the Philippines. I got in late on the 7th (Philippine time) after an exhausting 24 hour trip--from Denver to Minneapolis, Minn. to Japan, Japan to the Philippines. By the time I arrived in the Philippines I felt completely exhausted--both physically (I slept about 4 hours the entire trip) and emotionally--it was very hard to leave Matt at the airport.

I'll keep this entry short, though it's been an interesting past couple days, as well as an interesting reunion with a country I've visited three times before. There are familiar sights: the band that plays cheerful music as you exit the plane (similar to a mariachi band) and the Christmas lights strung lavishly along the roads and in most buildings. Christmas is celebrated for three months here (lately, the U.S. is not far behind) and they leave the decorations up for some time after the holiday. There's also the moist, warm air that sticks to my skin--quite a contrast from the dry, snowy landscape I left behind in Denver. Then there's the many American familiars, dressed up with Filipino flair--ice cream, for example, that comes in so many unusual flavors: cheese, for one, as well as fig-marscarpone, and yam. There's also the familiar warmth here beyond just the temperature: the people are so incredibly kind and hospitable I always feel humbled by my own deficiencies in that area. My need for space, my desires to be alone. Almost every Filipino is willing to help me, give directions, start up a conversation.

Anyway--the real adventure begins tomorrow. I head up to Banaue with my advisor--a nationally renowned anthropologist, who, at near-70 lifts weights and makes sure to walk almost an hour a day. His energy and wry wit amuse me. I'll be heading up with his team from the National Council for Culture and the Arts (NCCA) at midnight, Wednesday. We'll drive for 8 hours to Legawe, where their group will meet in the morning with local leaders to discuss how they're fulfilling their UNESCO guidelines. Then I'll head to my new home in Banaue after lunch. I'm excited.

Until then--I leave you with a picture of my breakfast for the past few days--Bangus (prized Filipino Milkfish) over rice, as well as a small egg, some veggies and mango juice--all complimentary with my hotel stay. Very yummy, thought not my usual fruit salad. All my meals have rice on the side. Good thing I like rice, right?

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