Thursday, January 18, 2007

Not long ago, the Ifugao wore their native outfits for rituals that they held throughout the year—which they still do in some communities today. These rituals were usually held for their sacred tinauan rice. Though they only plant this labor intensive variety once a year (they have another variety they plant twice a year), it is regaled as one of the most nutritious varieties in the world because it is grown organically and has a high iron content.

One of the challenges the Ifugao face is that those who farm tinauan hardly make enough rice to feed their families. Because they work in the fields all day on their organic rice crops and vegetables, they essentially have no income. As a result, some of the Ifugao have taken to posing in their colorful native clothes with tourists, asking a small amount of cash in return for the favor.

While this may sound relatively innocuous, Ifugao culture considers begging shameful. In fact, in the past a member of the community who begged would be ostracized, partly because it shames the members of the community as well. You’re not supposed to beg—your family and friends should help you.

Mani Dulawan, recognized expert and author on Ifugao culture said that an Ifugao dictum once was: By your sweat you live. So, when these Ifugao elders dress in their native clothes and pose for pictures, they are essentially begging, which has brought a lot of discussion and frustration into the community. On the one hand, it’s a symptom of a great problem: these Ifugao need a livelihood and this is one until they have a better solution. But on the other hand, begging and wearing the native dress for tourists takes away the dignity of the people.

One time, Mani and some Canadian friends went to the famous Banaue viewpoint, where many awe inspiring terrace photos are taken. Mani, who is a native of Ifugao but not a farmer, had another urban dwelling Ifugao with him. Since they were dressed in city clothes and joined by tourists, the Ifugao elders posing for pictures assumed they were tourists as well. But when Mani’s friend saw the elders, he grew angry with them, and spoke his feelings to them in their native tongue.

“You are an embarrassment to our people,” he said. “When you wear those costumes, you are supposed to be the elite; you are supposed to be proud. But what you are doing is actually begging. You are making yourself less than these tourists and bringing shame upon our culture.”

Though the elders were surprised and uncomfortable, the practice still continues. Yet this situation highlights a pivotal question that the Ifugao must answer: how can they balance and the financial benefits of tourism while maintaining not only their environmental and cultural heritage, but their dignity too?

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