The Motorbike Diaries: Part 1—On the Road

On one of our days on Panglao Island—a small island just off the coast of the larger island of Bohol, Matt and I rented a motorbike and decided to go for a day tour into Bohol’s interior. Our mission: to see the Chocolate Hills and the Philippine Tarsier (and to have lots of fun).

Check out Matt on the motorbike



We had no helmets, signed no waiver forms. Some guy at the farm loaned us his little motorbike and the two of us perched on it feeling a little like we were riding a toy. I’ve only ridden a motorbike in Thailand and in the Philippines and there is something immensely freeing about it. One of the things is that it’s the only time I’ve been in control of my transportation while abroad. On a motorbike you don’t have to ride with anyone else, you can go exactly where you want to go, and have an adventure without having anyone tell you what to do or where to go.

Secondly, we had to navigate for ourselves instead of being led, and that always helps me get to know a place more intimately, to feel more connected to it and aware. Thirdly, it’s just damn fun to speed along, fully exposed to the elements, to the sunshine and wind. I love biking and it’s like that—only faster. Though I still would never own a motorcycle in the States, I can see now why it’s so appealing.

Matt and I on our bike:



So, we set off at a safe pace with Matt in the front and me on the back with my arms wrapped around his waist. We navigated through the town, stopping every once in awhile to ask for directions. All I had was my little map that showed us the main roads. We finally got out of the town and started driving through more rural countryside—harvested rice fields, tall coconut palms, and small houses with little stores where people sat in the shade, staring at us as we drove past. It took us about an hour to get to our first stop: the Tarsier Sanctuary in Corella, and then another hour or so to get to Carmen, the site of the Chocolate Hills.

Here's a map of the island:

It was great to get a chance to view the countryside there, to see how the farms are laid out. At first, I saw all these dried up rice fields with short, sheared stalks. I kind of worried and thought all the terraces had been abandoned or something, but we later realized they’d just been recently harvested.

Recently harvested rice fields

At one point on our journey we reached the peak of a pass we had to pass through to descend into the valley that housed the Chocolate Hills. We watched the forest get more dense and thick and felt a cool breeze—a welcome respite from the beating sun. We later discovered a sign that said a local school had entirely replanted the mahogany forest some time ago to help heal the area. We got out and one point and walked around. Some of the leaves fell from the forest all around us, bright yellow, as the branches shivered against each other above us. It was a beautiful site—a forest, replanted by the locals. It made us both happy to see another example of what’s possible when people decide to give back to the land.

The forest:

There were only two downsides to our motorbike trip: my butt got so sore from six hours on a vibrating bike seat. I know, it’s crass, but it’s true. Secondly, I got a nasty burn from briefly touching my calf to the exhaust. Two weeks later and it’s still healing. I have to say though—it was worth it.